Style Icon Saturday Part 2: A Dangerous Game

To continue on with yesterday's post, my digital collection was inspired mostly on Lara Pulver's portrayal of Irene Adler. Then I started a concept board and I decided to design a five group collection inspired by the BBC series.

I deleted the old concept board (oops) but this one comes similar to it

The collection is called "A Dangerous Game", named after after the intensity of Holmes' and Moriarty's rivalry. The link to the full collection is http://issuu.com/adaniela70/docs/dg2 and this post will explain the groups in further detail. The fall/winter collection ranges from intimates to sportswear and in between.

A Game Afoot is my first group, consisting of eight different outerwear pieces, all inspired by Sherlock's character. I was inspired by the outerwear that Londoners would wear, as well as past and present silhouettes. I wanted to convey a bit of that Victorian elegance as well as that edge that modern outerwear has today. This is of course a women's collection so I had to bring a touch of sharpness from men's outerwear into this group.

The Villain, my first sportswear group, is inspired by Moriarty's character. I thought about his character and what he represents. He is first and foremost a psychopath, and studies has shown that psychopaths are these charming people who can manipulate at whim. Therefore for this group I wanted to blend a bit of innocence as well as a bit of ruggedness, for Moriarty is ruthless but at times even likable. Clothes can only help so much to hide the person who wears them.  

Misbehave was inspired by the woman, Irene Adler (who might just be one of my favorite characters besides Sherlock). This is my intimates group, made up of 12 pieces, ranging from robes to corsets. There was no question that I wanted to do a lingerie group and definitely no doubt who I was inspired by. Irene is a self-described dominatrix, which inspired me to have some items made from a soft polyester faux leather. I wanted this group to be sensual and sexy but very feminine and delicate as well, which describes Irene's character. 

In The Lab is my second sportswear group, inspired by Dr. John Watson, as well as the lab at St. Bart's. John's demeanor, when serious but at times fun, served as inspiration in the silhouettes. I thought about some of things that are found in a lab, like metal utensils and petri dishes, and I added that into this group. The print I used on some pieces is an actual picture of a bacteria, while other pieces are made out of a metallic lame, reminiscent of what one finds in the lab.

Sentiment, my cocktail dress group, is inspired by the chemistry between Sherlock and Irene. Irene thinks she's playing a game with Sherlock but in the end, she falls for him. Sherlock isn't exactly immune from her charm and might even be impressed with her, referring to her from then on as "The Woman." I wanted this group to be bold and seductive but refined and elegant as well. The silhouettes are the same way and are meant to be striking and smoldering, like the underlying chemistry these two characters have.

Throughout the series Sherlock gets himself into this game of sorts with Moriarty, therefore involving the people that Sherlock knows as pieces in the game. Irene is a pawn while John is collateral damage in the web Moriarty spins for Sherlock. 

Each of the characters in the BBC series has iconic style that no doubt will be unforgettable. If you haven't seen the series, go watch it and see for yourself.

Hope you enjoyed the collection! 

Stay fashionable kids.

-Daniela

Style Icon Saturday (Part 1)

It's Saturday again! Time for another installment of Style Icon Saturday. Who will be today's icon?

Irene Adler

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Since the release of the Robert Downey Jr. version of Sherlock Holmes, I fell head over heels with Rachel McAdams' portrayal of Irene Adler. For those who haven't watched or read Sherlock Holmes, Irene Adler is an "adventuress" in the short story "A Scandal in Bohemia" who in the end outwits Sherlock (which is an almost impossible task at that.) In the BBC version, she is portrayed as a powerful dominatrix (played by Lara Pulver) who teams up with Sherlock's nemesis James Moriarty to blackmail the Royals (similar to the novel.)

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Well, when extorting you have to wear a killer outfit...

From the different versions of Sherlock Holmes, the 2009 movie portrayal and the latest BBC portrayal of Irene Adler are my favorites. She beams confidence and gets what she wants from people by, in her own words, misbehaving. Some people might see her in a bad light but I see her more as a feminist hero. She manipulates (mostly) men to get what she wants and has them on her side when she needs them to be. She reduces some of the most influential people into weaklings, but ironic enough her weakness is a man. You can see a domineering woman through what she wears; in the movie she wears bold colors that were not common for the normal reserved Victorian woman. That could of been a choice on the part of the costumer but "A Scandal in Bohemia" does describe her as an "adventuress", defined as "a woman who seeks social or financial advancement by dishonest or unscrupulous methods." Fuchsia, or any bright shade for that matter could have been seen as a color worn by unscrupulous women. In the BBC version, Irene has on ink black stilettos, sharp enough to kill a man and tall enough to dominate over him. Red lipstick is key, as it will put the fear of God into a man (said by the gorgeous Dita Von Teese, who would know a thing or two about that.) Being Irene Adler, she would not be caught dead without a riding crop.

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Smarts and a sense of style...so easy to fall for

This post will be a short one because it will lead into a post I did a while back. The new BBC version of Sherlock, with its characters, inspired an entire digital collection. In the last post I mentioned I would show how a concept board helps a collection come together. In the next post I will show the collection in its entirety. Stay tuned for the next post!

Stay fashionable kids!

-Daniela

Moods & Concepts...

A few posts ago I explained how a design goes from a sketch to a physical piece of clothing. For any designer collection, like a design, starts with a concept. Fashion designers can get inspired by millions of things, from their morning coffee to a leave found on the ground. They get inspired by different eras, different places, the list goes on. When a collection is started, it is sketched and designed on a computer through programs such as Adobe Illustrator ans Photoshop. Before you start your sketches though, you need a mood board and/ or a concept board.

A mood board inspired by macarons

And the mini collection inspired by the macaron 

As a designer, I get my inspiration from different places. It ranges from time periods that inspire me to shows I have watched to even one single song that I can't get out of my head. Sometimes I mix two or more concepts together to create a collection.

This collection, concept board and all, was inspired by a mix of Lady Gaga's song "Bloody Mary" and the Spanish Inquisition (a bit morbid right?)

This mini holiday collection is inspired by a mix of the 1920's with the 1960's

A mood board and a concept board help a collection all tie together. It can contain items that inspire the collection, from period costumes to interesting buttons, to trending colors and silhouettes. 

This is a work in progress, a bridal collection based on the 1920's and 1930's mixed with a celestial theme

Having a mood and concept board help a designer to realize their vision and eventually create a real life collection. In a future post I will put up a finished digital collection and the concept board that inspired it. Until then!

Stay fashionable kids!

-Daniela

Style Icon Saturday!

It's Saturday! You know what that means right? Style Icon Saturday! Who will it be this weekend?

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Brigitte Bardot!

When you think of things that are synonymous with France, the Eiffel Tower and fashion top the list. When it comes down to people, Brigitte Bardot has to be one of the most iconic French women of all time. 

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Hair envy just beginning...

Miss Bardot did many things in her lifetime including modeling, acting, singing, as well as becoming an animal rights activist. Of course she is most notably known for her style.

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Twirling in an adorable gingham skirt, which she made extremely popular

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Audrey Hepburn's style was a huge influence on the 1950's, see here a younger Brigitte with the doe-eyed gamine look

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And here again

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Brigitte in the late 50's...slightly reminds me of Olga Kurylenko's character in Magic City

She was a big influence in different facets like art and music. She was seen with artists like Picasso and Dali, sang with Serge Gainsbourg, and had several songs mention her.

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That must have been one hell of a get-together...

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Making mod look good

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Her style is so iconic and yet does not go out of style

Her style is so iconic that she got a style of neckline named after her, the Bardot, that exposed the shoulders, and her famous messy chic hair is still trending to this day.

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The famous "choucroute" or sauerkraut messy bouffant 

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A modern and sleek take on the choucroute

Brigitte Bardot is such a great style icon and influences me greatly as a fashion designer. She didn't care about the fashion risks she took and right away they paid off and became iconic. And with sass to match, no wonder she became an idol to so many rebellious girls during the 60's.

See you next Saturday! Stay fashionable kids!

-Daniela

Style Icon Saturday (on Sunday!)

Sorry I wasn't able to post yesterday due to being ill but I am feeling much better so here's yesterday's post today. Another week, another gorgeous style icon. So who is it this week?

Josephine Baker!

If you haven't heard about this woman, you will now. She is a force to be reckoned with to say the least. She was an actress, singer, dancer, humanitarian, civil rights activist, etc. She did so many things in her lifetime that made her extraordinary. Today though we are going to focus on her incredible fashion.

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Josephine in her famous Banana Dance costume

She came from the slums of St. Louis, Missouri but at a young age she dreamed of doing something better with her life. She performed in the most famous clubs in Harlem, New York but was not as well received in the white clubs so she sought out somewhere where she would be respected by everyone, Paris. Paris during the 1920's was more progressive and more open minded to the arts.

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Miss Baker in a gorgeous showgirl costume

In Paris she performed in several shows, most famously in the Folies Bergere in skimpy costumes (or even nothing at all...got to give her props). She served as a muse to many people, including Ernest Hemingway, Christian Dior, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Christian Dior, Pablo Picasso...well the list goes on and on.

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Nicknamed the Black Venus...you can see why she was everyone's muse

She would get hundreds of marriage proposals, from the high and mighty to regular fans. She did marry four times, and adopted 12 children from different parts of the world as a way to combat racism and inequality.

She was in many shows, several movies and hundreds of photographs; she kept on performing until the day she died. 

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Here she is with her pet cheetah, Chiquita

During World War II, Josephine would spy for the French and received high honors for her efforts. During the 1960's, she would help with the Civil Rights Movement in America and spoke in Washington D.C. with many known civil rights activists. She always fought against inequality, something she could not do as a child in St. Louis.

Her style was just a tiny bit of what made up this beautiful and wonderful enigma.

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Wishing these pictures were in color...

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Well here's a bit of color

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Okay another colored poster...so gorgeous!

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She influenced many fashion designers since the 1920's...here's a modern set with Josephine all over the print...

Josephine Baker, among other things, was without a doubt one the most fashionable women of the 20th century. To this day, she continues to inspire artists, from burlesque performers to fashion designers (like me!) She truly was, and continues to be, a muse.

Stay fashionable kids.

-Daniela 

Quick Post: Facebook!

Just a quick reminder to everyone out there: if you haven't liked my new Facebook page for Premier Amour, go do it now! I will start putting up pictures, blog posts, inspiration, etc soon so go give a like!

Stay fashionable kids.

-Daniela

A Quick Behind the Scenes...

I bet some of you are wondering how a sketch on a piece of paper turns into a physical creation. In this blog post I will give you a little hint on how that happens.

It all starts with an idea. Then, a pencil sketch. For those of you who are too hip for pencils, you can sketch it out on the computer through programs like Adobe Illustrator or Photoshop. These sketches are called flats. Technical pattern makers add immense details to these flats so that it translates to the patterns that they will make for the design.

My sketches, or flats 

After this, you develop a pattern. You will need the basics like the front and back bodice, the front and back sleeves, front and back skirt pieces, etc. If you are a little confused about what I'm referring to, you need to get yourself the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong. You will never need to buy clothes after reading this book because this book teaches you everything you need to know about making your own clothing.

After you finish your patterns, you need to cut a sample. This will help you see how it will fit and where you need to fix the pattern if you need to.

This a cut and sewn sample. P.S. if you don't have a messy space, you're doing it wrong :)

Once the pattern is fixed, you cut the real thing. After cutting, you sew it all together. Quick tip: press in between sewing every piece; it will make all the difference. 

After everything is said and done, or sewn and pressed, you end up with the finished product!

This is my Lilac Dreams top and skirt set

And this one is my Collar Full top

Most of the time there will be some differences between the sketch and the design. For the designs above I omitted the bow on both designs but added a ribbon detail on the sleeves for the shirt.

This is just a little taste of what I go through to make a design. I'll base a later blog post on the full process, from sketch to physical design. Thanks for tuning in, I hope you create something for yourselves soon.

Stay fashionable kids.

-Daniela

Style Icon Saturday!

During the last two years I have noticed that I have not updated the blog as often as I wish I could. In total I had 22 posts, which for me is not enough! Just kidding, but I am going to push myself to blog a few times a week. So with that being said I am going to do a weekly feature on this blog called "Style Icon Saturday" where I feature someone who's fashion inspires me. This week:

Paloma Faith!

I have obsessing lately over her new album and I just had to do a post on her. If you don't know who Paloma is, she's a British singer with an amazing voice that will transport you to the 1960's. She is beyond soulful, just listen to "Only Love Can Hurt Like This" and you'll get it. Her style is a mix of different eras but with a modern twist (see why I like her?) The still above is from her music video "Upside Down", which was the first song I heard from her a few years back, Once I saw her style and her adorably colored hair, I was hooked.

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Her songs are so soothing but you can hear the soul she puts into every song. 

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Even though "Beauty Remains" is an emotional video (especially in this scene) , her beauty still peeks through.

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So sultry in "30 Minute Love Affair"

Her outfits for photo shoots and award shows are the best. She blends so many things in her looks that it all comes together cohesively. 

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Her hat is to die for

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Mixing a bit of vintage glamour with modern suave

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British style at its best

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Hat envy yet again

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Everything on point.

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I'm starting to associate Paloma with pastels

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A Carmen Miranda/ late 1940's inspired look

This is just a sample of many of her fabulous looks that I love. She is not afraid to experiment with her looks, which I admire. She's a great mix of British street style and vintage inspired clothing and accessories, and with an amazing voice to match, she is truly a fashion tour de force. If you see me with a lot of pastels, you'll know who inspired it.

Stay fashionable kids.

-Daniela